The Return of Phoebe Philo

This is not a drill

source: Phoebe Philo

It’s been a week since Phoebe Philo launched her long-awaited namesake label, and it has stirred the fashion community into a frenzy. Following her shock departure from Céline, everyone waited with bated breath for Philo’s eventual comeback. This is the designer who knows what every woman wants; but most importantly, what every woman wants to be. It’s virtually impossible to imagine a Phoebe Philo-less fashion industry. She’s so beloved that there are still a number of Instagram pages dedicated to her work, and sales of her archived pieces, fondly called “Old Celine,” are a hot commodity.

Finally, FINALLY, with the backing of the LVMH group, Philo released her debut collection (or edit, as they prefer to call it): A1. After years of waiting, we’ve gotten our fix. But, it seems like not everyone is taking the hit. Although she’s using the online drop method, which we rarely see in the luxury space, to provide access to a wider community; her prices are anything but accessible. Many have remarked that A1’s price points, which range from $450 to $25,000, were a bit too steep for a newly launched fashion house— no matter how lauded its designer. That being said, almost everything is sold out. Most of her products are now highlighted in red, the only remaining items being pre-orders or yet-to-be-launched pieces. Though we’ll have to wait until the next drop to live out our Philo girl fantasies, we can still appreciate what Philo has done so far.

In this first edit, Philo showcases something new within the lines of what she does best. While paying homage to everything we loved about her Céline, namely Philo’s unrivaled minimalist-esque coats, trousers, and coveted accessories; she introduces a flurry of textures, shapes, and, dare I say, colour! Though, in tolerable amounts; and, in a campaign featuring Daria Werbowy (IYKYK). Described as “wanting to create permanence,” Phoebe Philo’s approach to the first A1 edit is neither trendy nor simple. It is perfection. It is elevated timelessness that still manages to be fashion forward. Paired with its higher price point, A1 does represent everything a woman wants to be. Desire is much greater than need, anyway.

But regardless of whatever musings may come out of the fashion community, Phoebe Philo has cemented her permanent place in luxury fashion; independent from her old fashion house, and with a voice that, though quiet, is distinct enough to keep her Philophiles eagerly anticipating the A2 edit coming next spring. And that, much like A1, will probably be sold out in seconds.

 

all images from Phoebe Philo

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